GIMP!
Have been a big fan of GIMP for many years, only using Photoslop for final exports or conversions of CMYK images. I have a decent workflow with GIMP in conjunction with Scribus and Inkscape too.
Progress with the switch to GEGL is a fantastic milestone as I believe that will allow easier integration of CMYK handling at some point in the future. It's been a few years since I dropped into the GIMP IRC to ask about CMYK though, they don't like that question very much ;)
Ok, so it's not as polished as commercial software with a budget millions of times larger. But what an amazing piece of software, that anyone can use, for free. FREE! So just let that sink in before you diss it.