Re: The thing to remember about Smart TVs...
Yup, a few of us will still remember the tvs of the '50s.
Live chassis (hopefully connected to neutral not line, but 2 pin plugs were the norm then).
Nice thin wood veneer plywood cabinet, foil lined inside and connected to chassis.
70 degree angle crt with aquadag graphite coating on the outside for EHT smoothing - hopefully also connected to chassis, and dirty great VDR at the top behind the screen between EHT and chassis for regulation. Dirty (and they always were!) great scan coils squidged around the end of the inch or so diameter neck, a couple of magnadur rings for focus, adjustable via a wacking great knob poking out the back of the set, (You should have seen the Advance K1 magnetiser that magnetised 'em in the first place), ion trap magnet twiddleable around the tube neck...
Concentric on/off volume and brightness (sometimes contrast) knobs on the left under the screen, Concentric turret tuner and fine tuner controls on the right. (Choose 2 out of 13 channels for BBC / ITV, you'd need the fine tuning knob at least once as the set warmed up) Most sets only had the coil strips fitted for the local channels - a move to another district was a service job to fit more strips.
300 mA heater chain.
Dirty great dropper resistor for ac or dc mains operation with tappings for 200V - 250V. (Handy when the valve emissions got a bit low - drop the tapping down 10 - 20 V or so to get a bit more out of the Line and Frame output valves and CRT. So what if it steamed a bit.)
A great line of twiddle pots down one side of the back to play with on a regular basis.
On an upmarket set you might get a spot wobble switch (on the back of course) to switch in a circuit which modulated the frame at 10 Mhz to give the appearance of 2 lines instead of 1 and make the 405 line picture seem softer.
If you were really well heeled you'd be able to afford a console model with castors underneath, possibly with a nice pair of doors. (Apart from a bigger speaker usually the same innards as the bog standard) Dad bought an old one for a couple of squid in the 60's, gutted it and converted it into a nice walnut cupboard for the hallway to keep the phone books and bill hook in
Lots and lots of somewhat unstable wax covered carbon resistors, wax covered capacitors, usually 0.1uF, where the wax decayed to a sticky oily substance covered with adhered dusty flock looking like sticky miniature rodents, all electrically leaky.
A strong smell of real mice if they had managed to chew a way through the cardboard back.
A few nice octal (could be Mazda Octal or Universal Octal - very slightly different sizes) valves - 1/2 wave HT rectum fryer, frame output, line output, which could (and did) go short circuit and cook their bases. Mmmm very warm bakalite. Some late 50's models were fitted with Selenium metal oxide HT rectifiers. If one of those brutes broke down and caught fire you'd be lucky to get the pong out of the house, let alone the set.
If you were really lucky you'd have an Ekco. Way better than the average picture, decent gated AGC, generally well made, BUT it had a wax insulated line output transformer with EHT overwind contained in a perspex frame with the EY86 EHT rectifier soldered to 3 metal bits on the top of the perspex. Now when that little lot caught fire....In case your'e wondering... the EY 86 was a B9A 9 pin base with a top cap anode and directly heated cathode. The heater was at EHT potential and driven by a few turns of well insulated overwind from the LOPT. The valve was connected to the 3 solder points by 3 bits of tinned copper wire twisted round the top cap and appropriate base pins. Yeah - it did fizz a bit in damp weather. I'll never know why they didn't use the wire ended EY51. Maybe the EY51 was Mullard only. The rest of the set was firmly Mazda. The EY86 may have had a Mazda equivalent fitted. Misspent Childhood memories fail...
Getting all nostalgic now... OK Nurse, I'm coming. May I have some of those pretty orange ones again today?