What I would expect
...is for a reviewer to do theur journalistic duty and analyse the game from a professional standpoint and not bring personal bias into it. Adding a little humour to a review is fine and actively welcomed but not at the expense of conveying important information. To go back to one of the shining comments of this review:
"The levelling system is totally blandflakes"
..hardly tells you much about the process. There is no detailed information about the way the classes work, the use of different roles for different situations, the synergy between various soul trees and the way that points can be attributed. There is no mention about the overlap between certain classes means that some mechanics often override each other (for example, Warlord buffs are occasionally overwritten by Bard and Archon skills).
You could also cover how experience can be gotten from a number of different sources (quests, warfront PVP, closing rifts), talk about the various crafting professions (again, you could mention how certain crafts have issues at present, such as Apothecary). Miss Orr's problem with her reviews (not just this one - I'm also thinking of the review she did for the high performance network card) is that she assumes too much prior knowledge on the part of the reviewer. For some people, Rift may be their first entry into MMO gameplay and describing a certain warfront as "like Alterac Valley" is not particularly helpful if you have no idea what Alterac Valley actually *is*.
If I were doing a full review of Rift (a tempting idea when I have a free moment), I would use the time spent levelling from 1-20 as a good indicator of how well the game performs. As you point out, expecting a reviewer to reach the end game stages is unreasonable given the normal time for a review, which is why its important to explain as much about the early stages as possible. Granted, you don't have to get right down to tiny detail (e.g. attacks are performed by right clicking on an enemy target and clicking on various skills from the tool bar) - most gamers looking at Rift will have a little experience of basic RPG systems.
Just remember that not everyone has played World of Warcraft.