Re: "since replaced by a dull McAirport"
If you're doing the Giant Commercial Trap, sorry Buddha, then get a ticket including the monastery restaurant as well. Was superb and even a carnivore such as myself was feeling very content and stuffed on the vegetarian food.
On a different note - about Kai Tak - the one time I flew in to there I was really excited and had a window side seat (alas one in, not the actual window seat). The pilot announced we were on our final path and if we looked out of the windows we'd see in through people's windows, sp we all crammed to the nearest side. From my side of the plane there was a lack of noise, sure you could see buildings 10-20 feet below us, but it wasn't quite what we expected. The other side was full off oos and aahs - turns out, on our final approch route atleast, you only got the 'real' view on one side, and not mine.
These days it's a pretty vanilla airport (actually it's a lot better than that) with a very easy and quick route in to the centre (and as a reapet visitor if you have your octopus card from a previous time it does nto expire, you just need it reenabling and possibly topping up for the MTR)