I did once think to try building a CMY(K) head for a 3D printer. Use white filament for the base colour and then mix in the rest to suit.
Like most of my big ideas it never got any further than a sketch.
The botObjects ProDesk3D isn’t the world's first full-colour 3D printer – but at £3,299, it’s substantially the cheapest. As a fused deposition modelling printer, it uses six cartridges to output a full spectrum of colours. The development of 3D printers today is akin to the heady days of microcomputers in the early 1980s, …
There are various papers and experiments into mixing nozzles, istr they concluded that the only way to get a good blend was with a motorised mixing mechanism in the heated chamber. I presume thats what the stepper on the printhead on this model is.
As for maleable materials, you'll never get the interesting rubbery filaments like ninjaflex to work in this printers bowden extruders without it jamming regularly, you need the drive right up next to the heater on the print head. Theres already a huge number of translucent materials, uncoloured/natural PLA, as well as stuff like t-glase, nylon, etc
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There was the File2Part Gutenberg project which coloured as it printed but I've not heard anything of it for a long time.
Some proper photos of finished articles out of the printer would have been nice.
[edit]Ahh... here are some https://botobjects.com/latest-updates
What is the latest capability in 3D capture of an object to create the model before printing? There have been projects for stitching together ordinary digital images - but did they ever become viable? The Asda capture and object printing seems revolutionary and affordable - but presumably only works for life-size people rather than small clay models.
I prefer to model in hands-on plasteline - but the silcone moulding and cold casting process limits the possible poses.
Yes,
I don't want to spend a week on 3D CAD drawing. I have maybe one original object and I need only one replica. Using latex or 2 part Silicone Rubber is a problem to replicate. Mechanical strength is needed too. I'm not replicating figurines but broken items not made for 30 to 90 years.
I need the high resolution 3D scanner too.
The "printed" parts need to be as smooth and resolution of cast, also as strong as Milled parts.