back to article The bunker at the end of the world - in Essex

Kelvedon Hatch is a superb example of absurdist geek life. Not only is the site technically very impressive, it is also completely useless and frequently prompts the question “what on earth were they thinking?”... A tour reinforces this view as the experience now is as enjoyably peculiar as the history behind the place. The …

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      1. Ken 16 Silver badge

        shut in and left completely isolated for up to three months

        "chemical toilets for when the base was closed to save precious water, and worst of all, cardboard coffins for those who didn’t make it"

        The only flaw is that most of them wouldn't attend.

    1. Chika
      Unhappy

      Re: This could be the most visionary piece of forward planning ever.

      I like your thinking!

      The problem is that there are so many that would probably want to take their places...

      1. Prof. Mine's A. Pint

        Re: This could be the most visionary piece of forward planning ever.

        So, why don't we replace the next general election with a pilot TV show called "Big Brother's Big Brother"?

        I'm happy to accept suggestions for inclusion/evictions rules (preferably more of the former and less of the later)

  1. billat29

    4 minute warning

    Two fellow visitors told me what they had planned to do in the four minutes between the warnings going off and obliteration - Just enough time to get to the local where they had arranged for the barmaid to have two pints waiting.

    1. Anonymous Coward
      Anonymous Coward

      Re: 4 minute warning

      Did they know where their towels were?

    2. Lord-a-miytee

      Re: 4 minute warning

      Never mind the beer. If there's a barmaid to serve it I can think of something much more interesting to do with my last four minutes. In fact, in that time I could probably do it twice.

  2. Tom 7

    "Then the earth was replaced."

    I was wondering about that.

    Re Tim Roberts 1. yes... I remember my father staring out the window during the Cuban Missile Crisis. I was about 3 1/2 at the time. Its one of the few images of him I could still paint after all these years.

    It may look mad now but it happened and was very very real at the time.

  3. jubtastic1
    Mushroom

    Worth a visit

    Interesting to explore and easy to laugh at the dioramas but the reality behind this building is pretty sobering. Grim is an understatement, Its poorly lit, cold and musty with an undercurrent of rot.

    Hard to imagine what it would have been like to be shut in down there as blasts shook the ground and the world died above you.

  4. Alister

    Only in Britain...

    ...would you find a road sign saying "Secret Nuclear Bunker"**

    It brings to mind a certain Mr Chekov, asking in a strong Russian accent for "nooclear wesselz"

    ** Okay, i know it's a recent sign, and wouldn't have been there during the cold war.

    1. Richard Pennington 1
      Black Helicopters

      Re: Only in Britain...

      Not just in Britain ...

      On a visit to Washington DC a few years ago, I spotted a car prominently labelled "US Secret Service - Uniformed Division". There is also a turnoff from one of the Baltimore-to-Washington freeways, labelled "National Security Agency - Employees Only".

      1. Anonymous Coward
        Anonymous Coward

        Re: Only in Britain...

        I read that as "US Secret Service - *Un-informed* Division" :-)

  5. TheresaJayne

    I used to do re-enactments in the bunker, staying there at night and sleeping in the bunks.

    We used to do the Cuban Missile Crisis, 1962.

    It is scary to think that on that day Russian bombers were coming down the north sea and if the secret talks had not succeeded in america the missiles in Norfolk would have been fueled and WW3 would have started.

    But that information is not commonly known with the standoff at Cuba being the more widely known incident.

    1. Anonymous Coward
      Anonymous Coward

      hmmmm.....

      "I used to do re-enactments in the bunker, staying there at night and sleeping in the bunks. We used to do the Cuban Missile Crisis, 1962."

      Sorry - each to their own, and all that...but that just sounds weird

  6. frank ly

    Just wondering...

    What kind of run-off water stains concrete blue?

    1. Don Jefe
      Happy

      Re: Just wondering...

      I would guess it is caused by an ingredient in that type of reinforced concrete, not the water itself.

      On the other hand maybe one of the chemical toilets has been leaking... Alternatively the white balance on the camera was wonky.

      1. Phil W

        Re: Just wondering...

        perhaps copper pipes + sulfur either in the water or from somewhere else to make copper sulfate?

    2. Badvok

      Re: Just wondering...

      I never actually noticed that until you pointed it out, I guess that these days I'm too used to seeing poor quality pictures taken by mobile phones to expect any kind of realistic colour balance.

  7. Anonymous Coward
    Anonymous Coward

    I visited some years back

    and the place had a delightfully ramshackle feel, seemingly also serving as the foundations of a museum of shop-window mannequins. One of whom, if I remember correctly, was sat in front of a microphone in a radio studio wearing a Spitting Image Maggie Thatcher mask. A thoroughly British day out.

  8. Mr Spock

    Waiting for Eadon

    ... to explain to us why they used Commodores and not Windows PCs.

    1. Isendel Steel
      Coat

      Re: Waiting for Eadon

      Because Commodores hold a higher rank ?

      1. mmeier

        Re: Waiting for Eadon

        But Windows has a General as part of the OS. So the question is "How many stars does General Failure have?"

        1. TeeCee Gold badge
          Meh

          Re: Waiting for Eadon

          Er, that's "General Protection" to you.

          For some reason, whenever anything went wrong in Windows it was always his fault.

    2. J P
      Coat

      Re: Waiting for Eadon

      Of course there weren't any Windows; it's a concrete bunker 100' underground. And anyway, they'd have had to have been whitewashed, wouldn't they?

    3. Anonymous Coward
      Anonymous Coward

      Re: Waiting for Eadon

      Very little of the original contents of the bunker remained when the bunker was decommissioned. The Parrish family took anything and everything from the period as props to recreate the interior. So don't go looking too closely trying to deduce why HM Govt was using various bits of kit. The only thing you can deduce is that 15 years ago the Parrish family were given various bits of kit.

      As a local I can tell you, as expected, you can't build something like that and keep it a secret. Ever since I was a kid I knew about the military base in the woods. The signs on the fence rather gave that away. So those machine gun positions covering the corridor would have been for us!

  9. SuperHoopMango
    Pint

    "It is scary to think that on that day Russian bombers were coming down the north sea and if the secret talks had not succeeded in america the missiles in Norfolk would have been fueled and WW3 would have started."

    Russian bombers have always been coming down the North Sea! That was what the QRA force were for. A quick scramble and escort the ruskies back out of our airspace.

    To nicely tie in with something else that has happened in these last few days...

    I was on HMS Ark Royal in the late 80's, on detachment from the RAF, and was able to stand on the flight deck and watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead. This was around the north of Scotland on exercise!....Ahhhhh....happy days!

    <<< That's for "Channel night"!!

    1. Yag
      Happy

      "watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead"

      I thought you might have heard it more than watched it...

      1. mmeier

        Re: "watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead"

        Very shortly after reunification two recently aquired MIG 29 visited the local Bundeswehr base. Quite a few peple, me included, had to fight the urge to take cover and call for the Flak when the "Iwan" came in fast and low with two smoke-free F4F(1) in hot pursuit.

        (1) Afterburners on and barely under the Mach. Man what a sound mix...

        1. Anonymous Coward
          Anonymous Coward

          Re: "watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead"

          " Afterburners on and barely under the Mach. Man what a sound mix..."

          In the late 1960s an airshow in Wem had a Spitfire do the classic low pass over the crowd - followed by a steep climb to produce that iconic sound. The show commentator then said that the English Electric Ligntning was delayed. So everyone was unprepared as it imitated the Spitfire's low pass and steep climb - with the afterburners on.

          It wasn't so much a noise as your very insides being pummelled into jelly.

        2. Peter Gathercole Silver badge

          Re: "watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead"

          I was on the deck of the Audacious class Ark Royal in the '70s at Navy Days when an F4K came over and did the climb with after-burners on. Flat metal surfaces and the flight deck reflecting the sound, it was deafening.

          I think it was the same visit that we took one of the Drakes Island boat trips, and saw Eagle (the Ark's sister ship) mothballed and anchored just off the Island. There's something strangely disturbing about such a large warship with nothing happening on it, although it was not as bad as watching the follow-on episode to the BBC first series of "Sailor", where they took the Fleet-Master-At-Arms who had served on the Ark for 20 years on-and-off to the graving dock where they were pulling her to pieces. Seeing such a 'hard' man crying was terrible to see.

      2. SuperHoopMango
        Mushroom

        Re: "watch a Russian Bear bomber go overhead"

        As posted to the RAF Neatishead thread, on here some weeks ago, I was in RADAR, and thus we could "see" the paints of the bomber coming over. We knew where it was coming from so a quick run up to the flight deck and we could see the shape of it in the sky.

        Yes, you could hear it....but getting "eyes" on it was far more exciting....at least to this, then, 19 year old scopie!

        < for the payload of the Bear-H!

  10. Conrad Longmore
    Thumb Up

    I'm not convinced..

    I'm not convinced that a lot of the vintage IT kit in the bunker actually *comes* from there, I think a lot of it was added when it was turned into a museum. Still, it's well worth a visit. The bit that got me was the three-shift system for the bunk beds. A cushy little number this was not.

    1. We're all in it together

      Re: I'm not convinced..

      Wasn't it 600 staff rotating or something like that? Been a while since I visited it.

  11. helicoil
    Thumb Up

    Excellent place to visit, very atmospheric, interesting and down right frightening at times. Most frightening was being told on the tour that the defences were mainly to keep the likes of you and me out not marauding Ruskies, it was expected that society would have returned to a more feudal like existence.

    After visiting the bunker we went home and watched "Threads", needed a damned good drink after that lot! ;-)

    Recently a couple of locals(Harlow) organised a zombie invasion/survival role playing type game based in the bunker -tickets were sold out before I managed to get any -gutted!

  12. Anonymous Coward
    Mushroom

    Yes, interesting place to visit in the same way as Bletchley Park.

    Maybe in 50 years, the nuclear bunker allegedly under The Donut will be a open to the public?

  13. John Smith 19 Gold badge
    Unhappy

    OMG. A Marconi radar *more* efficient than planned.

    Sadly IIRC the air defense computer system was a complete balls up.

  14. Richard Pennington 1
    Black Helicopters

    Perhaps they should have sold it ...

    ... via a classified ad.

  15. Mostly_Harmless Silver badge
    Happy

    good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

    As a child of the 70s/80s I remember when the idea of nuclear obliteration was more of an "when" than an "if". Good to have come out of the other side and be able to look at things like this and have a few light-hearted comments.

    1. mmeier

      Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

      In 1986 we had a Bundeswehr "Jugendoffizier" at school discussing (1) Natos Pershing2/cruise missile introduction. At one point the greeny blurbt about "chances of survival". The Bundeswehr guy sadly shook his head and started:

      Local powerplant, one SS20 warhead, 100KT, airburst,5 km from here

      Important part of the channel systen, one SS20 warhead, groundburst, 10km

      Bundeswehr airbase, multiple warheads, ground and airburst, 20km

      Major railroad and railyards for loading/unloading tanks prior to the channel crossing, airburst, 2km

      Your chances to survive: NONE!

      The class was a tad silent and Billy looked green...

      (1) Actually he showed us what a blabbering, clueless fool Billy Birkenstock was

      1. TeeCee Gold badge
        Meh

        Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

        I recall seeing an interview fairly recently with a military type who was senior in NATO back in the day. He was asked what the plan was for a defence of Western Europe.

        "Well, the plan was we'd try to keep them on the other side of the Rhine until the Americans got their kit across the Atlantic."

        "Would that have worked?"

        "No, not a chance. They'd have overwhelmed us well before the Yanks could get their heavy stuff over in significant quantity."

        "Ok, so in that position what would have been done."

        "There was only one plan really. Fall back, get the tactical nukes released, nuke their armoured spearheads in Germany, then cross our fingers and see if they felt like escalating."

        "What? You mean the only plan was that NATO would use the first nuclear strike? You can't be serious."

        "I'm deadly serious. It was the only workable option we had.".

        "And what if the use of nuclear weapons was not approved?"

        "Ah, that would be a political problem and it would then be up to the politicians to discuss our surrender terms.".

        I'm guessing that the Germans weren't exactly delighted with this approach, which appears to me to revolve around either using Germany for nuclear target practice or handing it to the Soviets.

        1. Dazed & Confused
          Meh

          Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

          The thing I never get is that everybody 'high up' seems to have made the assumption that all the little people would rather be sacrificed than live under the Soviets.

          Now, I really don't like the idea of living in he Soviet Union - but I like the idea of being dead even less.....

          If the Ruski tanks really had rolled over the border, would the politicians have thought, 'Well this is worse than death' and pressed the big red button?

        2. mmeier

          Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

          Some say the definition of a tactical nuke was: lt. exploded in germany. Our US "protectors" where a tad to free with both candy and nukes. Could not hold their alcohol or their release orders

          With the Brits you could at least have a brew or a beer while discussing compensation for the Chieftain sized hole in grandmas tulips...

        3. Anonymous Coward
          Anonymous Coward

          Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

          ahem...there was another component to the plan at least in the early days.

          They intended to drop a TA Airborne Brigade - 3 battalions of Paras plus 1 regiment of heavy mortars - in between the first & second Russian echelons to slow everything up. The army had worked out how many men they would lose at each stage and how they would regroup into smaller and smaller units before day 5 attempting to break out in 5 man teams. I think we worked out they would have taken 97% casualties at that point.

          My source was told that in late 1962 when he was issued with his travel warrant and placed on 24 hours notice.

      2. Malmesbury

        Re: good to be able to look on this so light-heartedly

        Small towns in Germany are 20Kt apart....

  16. SW
    Mushroom

    Don't forget the Mistley Anti Aircraft Operations Room

    Also in Essex...

    Used to play around the site when I was a kid, we lived in the village.

    Not as impressive as the Kelvedon Hatch one but still of interest... http://www.subbrit.org.uk/rsg/sites/m/mistley/

    Was fun trying to get through the fencing around the facility.

  17. AlanBBoyd
    Mushroom

    Scotland's Secret Bunker

    The Anstruther bunker has a similarly comical sign, but for anyone in the north it's definitely worth a visit. Distinctly sobering government information films of the time runnnig on a loop, advising on what you should do with the excess broken bodies cluttering up your nuclear shelter.

    Piles of ancient comms kit on display too.

  18. JimmyPage Silver badge

    Thankfully a relic

    growing up in the 70s, the threat of nuclear war was somehow "normal". So much so, that when the great hurricane hit London in 1987, for a few moments I was convinced the USSR had bombed us - howling winds, eerie darkness, and telephone and radio out. After frantically spinning the radio dial, I finally hit radio Essex - 5 minutes of which was enough to make me wish they *had* dropped the bomb ....

  19. We're all in it together
    Thumb Up

    As mentioned previously

    Driving through Chipping Ongar one day saw the 'Secret Nuclear Bunker' sign on the mini roundabout and made a note to visit it. It is indeed an interesting tour. Mind you whilst the sign is new I suspect the rather large mast probably gave the game away to the Russians. That and having a 'bungalow' with CCTV everywhere.

    And actually it's the only site I found using Apple maps....

    I know it's been a while but had to be done :-)

  20. Maikol
    Thumb Up

    Anyone else thought of Vaultec?

    For a moment I lost myself thinking I was walking about in the wasteland and seeing a radio tower and approaching it and finding a Vault!

    I would like to have seen more pictures though.

    1. andy mcandy
      Thumb Up

      Re: Anyone else thought of Vaultec?

      Give me a powerfist and i'll be a happy wandered :)

  21. Anonymous Coward
    Anonymous Coward

    The Villagers?

    "How much the villagers knew about the facility I’m not sure ..."

    You do now - we all knew, at least in the mid 1970's - local children went to both Ongar and Brentwood Schools, so those towns would probably have an inkling as well. The original entrance is via a very narrow lane, and not the signposted route - check out Google street view! No parking via the original entrance though!!

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